I started paddling as a wave approached me. I felt the water rise from underneath my board, pushing me forward. The board stared to angle downward telling me its time to do a bottom turn. I hop up on my feet, keeping my knees bent and my core tight. I followed the wave, curving my board and body along with the water I saw an opportunity to try a backside air reverse. I pumped my legs, and used the momentum in my body to turn. Only, I didn't catch the wave properly, and it turned into a really good chop pop. I sighed, and continued to turn and ride the wave. In between each trick I carve, cutback and do off-the-lip turns for fun.
I saw another opening, going for it. I swung my arms and put the pressure on my back leg, forcing my board to turn. Feeling myself do a 180 in the air, I stomped my back leg down, causing a good landing for the trick. I came out of it, bent over in a good position. I smiled to myself and tried again. Again, I did the trick perfectly.
After practicing those for awhile I decided to try a 540 Ally Oop. I swam with the wave until I stood up, flowing along the water. When the wave became stronger I started pumping my legs hard, creating a squiggly line in the water behind me. When I felt that I had enough momentum to propel me in the air, I dragged my hand in the water, feeling the cool liquid splash onto my upper forearm, causing my body and board to turn suddenly. I reached the top of the wave, and turned my body and swung my arms, giving me a 720 rotation. My board landed back on the wave with a thud, making me loose my balance and fall off. I fell into the water, the cold substance wrapping around my body like a blanket. I broke through the surface and swam towards my board ready to try again.
Before attempting the trick again, I practice my tail slide, wiping around fast and getting lashed in the face with my wet hair. I used my one hand to remove the hair from my face. I started doing the exact same thing, I propelled my body and board into the air, rotating 720 degrees, two full circles in the air. This time when my board hit the water, I braced myself, bending my knees and holding my core even tighter. I landed it smoothly, coming out of the trick and riding along the rest of the wave. I did a few more of those until I moved on to my hardest trick. The rodeo flip. My mom said if I had any chance at a full ride to Sate collage from surfing, it would be from having the rodeo flip down.
Standing up, looking ahead of me at the wave, I prepared myself for this trick. I pumped my legs again. When I reached the top of the wave I dismounted from the water grabbing my board with both of my hands, ready to do my rotation. I started to rotate only to land on my side in the water. When I surfaced, I tried again, This time missing my board and falling off face first into the water. Angry I decide to try a kickflip, which I did with ease and I started to wonder if I'd be any good at skating. Deciding not to get distracted, I rode out the rest of the wave then swimming back out to deeper water.
Sitting on my board, waiting for another wave, I notice the sun start to set and the waves calm down. I decided that the next few waves, I would continue to work on the rodeo flip. I continued to try to complete the trick, and I continued to fail, whether it be not getting my rotations right or falling off my board when I went to grab it.
The hardest part was making sure my form and grip were tight when I rotated upside-down. I grabbed the board again, getting into the correct position, bending my knees and winding my my body for the spin. My board spun, the world around me spinning so fast I could only see my red hair fly past me. When my board hit the water, it landed on the backside of the wave, making be fall backwards off my board.
I resurfaced, swimming to my board and then paddling to shore, choosing to wait from Robby. I walked onto the beach, sand sticking to my wet feet. Reaching my bag, I set my board down and pulled out my phone. It read 6:18. I looked around me for any sign of Robby. My eyes could not find him among the many people on the beach so I decided to pull off my rash guard and dry off. I use my towel to dry my legs and I pull on my jean shorts. I laid out my towel on the sand and sat down, waiting for him to show.
By 7:30 the sky was completely dark. I sighed, realizing I had been stood up. I grab my bag, stuffing everything inside, gripping my board tightly under my one arm. Sliding my sandals on, I walked back to my jeep.
Hey guys!! So how do you think about this chapter? What do you think happened to Robby? Let me know in the comments!
Thanks
-Daisy
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Tidal Wave (Robby Keene/Book 1)
Fanfiction"Why is it when you finally start acting like me, you get kicked?" "Rotten lu-" *************************************** I might follow the story line at some parts then change some other parts! *Disclaimer- all rights and Characters (except for a f...