Not So Hot Girls Summer

7

The beach below the hostel had an inviting intimacy about it. It was incredibly small; only formed from a half-moon stretch of sand that was surrounded entirely by vegetation. Even Bee couldn't make it down to the coastline, we had to leave her at the top of the cliff, next to the stone stairs that descended through the thickening of trees, down to the beautifully kept hideaway. Even the sea, despite my fear of it, was perfectly picturesque. Behind the white waves that foamed at the shore was a strip of turquoise that faded into deep rich blues in the distance, reflecting the rays of sun that gracefully touched its rippled surface. 

On the beach remained only a handful of people that had hung around assumptively to watch the sun fade beyond the horizon. Thankfully, this meant less eyes on me attempting to ride the small waves that headed for us, and with a couple of men already out on their boards in the distance, it was unlikely that anyone's focus would be on me at all.

After a short and quick land trial, we ran with our boards into the water, gripping them at one end to help force them over each wave that now no longer seemed calm, but as if they were attacking us. No longer were they picturesque but wild and angry. Jordan pushed over them with ease, wearing a secret look of confidence on his face, whilst I grappled with the longboard every time the roll of foam headed for me. But slowly and surely we battled our way out further until we were edging onto the dark blue.
The instructor stood next to my board, grasping onto it to hold it securely in place whilst Jordan sat leisurely on his, his strong legs dangling either side.
It was only then they insisted I went first.
''When this next wave comes up behind you, I want you to paddle. And then, just like I showed you, when you have enough momentum, jump up strongly onto your feet, keep those knees bent and do not head to the front of that board. Got it?'' he shouted enthusiastically.
I hadn't. But I wasn't going to reveal that and make him repeat the same thing.
''Yep. Got it.'' I replied
''Here we go,'' he shouted.
As my heart started to palpitate faster, the water beneath me began to build.
''Paddle!'' I heard Jordan shout.
My arms began to paddle forcefully as my heart beat against my chest, pushing my board away from the safe grasp of the instructor. I was now in the wild sea, alone. The water continued to rise and its momentum began to build, as did mine.
This was it.
I jumped onto my feet, fixing them securely on the slab of resin. I was now in an upright position. Technically at this point, I was riding a wave. My first wave. My eyes fixated on the shoreline ahead as it got closer and closer. I could almost reach for it...then crash. I went falling down into a foam of bubbles, my body twirling beneath the board that floated chaotically above me before gasping for air seconds later.
It took seconds before my feet touched the ground of the shallow, only then allowing me to scramble forward for the board whilst my heart returned to beating furiously with adrenaline. I sighed in relief. I was alive and I was safe and much to my disbelief, I wanted to try again.
Jordan waved encouragingly from the distance, now ready to ride his own wave. He paddled majestically before standing firmly and powerfully, like the mighty Poseidon. He was strong and confident as he darted towards me, showing no signs of falling into the froth below. In fact, he rode the wave impressively and with ease.
I could see him smiling as he neared towards me.
''You surf don't you?'' I shouted over the washing of the waves.
''Possibly,'' he replied as he glided past me ''But you enjoyed it didn't you?''
''Well, you could have just taught me!'' I replied with some flirtation.
I paddled myself forward to reach his position further in the shallow.
''You wouldn't have gone near a board if I tried.''
He was right. I wouldn't have, out of both fear and embarrassment.
''So, when did you actually learn?'' I asked.
''A long time ago. But that's a story for another time. Attempt number two for you.''
I returned his smile whilst I breathed heavily and deeply, attempting to refill my lungs with oxygen as quick as humanly possible.
''Give me a minute,'' I requested.
He laughed.

Whilst we waited, the instructor suddenly approached us from behind.
''Watch out guys, I'd wait just a minute for this oncoming wave to pass. It's a biggen.''
I turned on my board, now leisurely swinging my legs like Jordan had so coolly done, to see a large wall of water building in the distance. We immediately scrambled further into the shallow and onto the shoreline, away from the unexpectedly large wall as it headed promptly for us. Thank goodness I had chosen to catch my breath. Whilst I stared in both awe and fear,
Jordan watched eagerly and desperately as it increased in height. You could see his yearning to ride it.
Then just like me, it crashed, only metres away from the shoreline, creating a frenzy of bubbles, water and sand, the sound of it echoing through my ears. This water was aggressive.
''I can't go back out after that. Did you see this size of it?'' I stated, my nerves instantly shook.
''To be fair, I would advise not going back in, especially as a beginner. That size wave is rare down here, the sea seems unpredictable this evening,'' the instructor coolly replied with an uncomfortable smile.
I smiled in relief as the instructor had confirmed my decision, but still trying to impress Jordan, I insisted I would try it again another time. Instead, I returned my gaze back to the sea that was still tumbling towards us, waiting for it to regain its composure as the sun was gradually settling behind it.
Only a few people now remained on the beach, and even they had congregated together on the shoreline, assumptively to watch the unexpected wild nature of the waters return to its calm state after the unexpected disruption. Yet there was one singular man stood between the groups, looking exhausted as he clambered out of the waters. He must have been caught in the aquamarine monster. He rose clumsily from his knees like a drunken sailor, before beginning to shout into the horizon across the sea. I nudged Jordan to temporarily stop talking in order to make out what he was saying as his arms began to wave wildly in the air.
''I wonder what's happening over there,'' I said to him, alerting him of the commotion happening around a hundred feet from us.
His eyes flickered quickly to the man and then to the sea as my eyes also scanned for the problem.
''The other surfer,'' he said alarmingly,