1816: the Grandest Tour

Germany: Chapter 14

George's worries that his talk with Goethe had been too frank were, it seemed, unfounded. In a matter of days, he and Tobias were invited, at the great poet's instigation, to an audience with the Grand Duke. Although this would be their third presentation to continental royalty (or fourth, counting Prince-Bishop Ernst), the two young men still felt their nerves well on edge as they drove up to Duke Karl August's residence. It was a tasteful modern palace, neoclassical in character. And while it certainly paled in size against the Louvre or even the Munich Residenz, neither George nor Tobias found it lacking in any article of color, decoration, or refinement.

The most interesting features of Schloss Weimar were the couple of exterior buildings that had managed to survive many fires over the centuries. One was an old-looking round tower topped by an elegant bell and clock finial. The other was a small four-level wing with a charming irregular roof pattern, which looked at least 17th century.

George, Tobias, and Isaac alighted at a four-columned portico, where a footman ushered them inside and through several corridors to the massive Festsaal where the Duke held most of his functions. The room was well-lit by tall windows and chandeliers, while Ionic marble columns along the walls supported an upper gallery. Niches in each wall held Classical statuary in a much grander echo of Goethe's house.

Tobias whispered to the servant that they were friends of Herr Goethe, so he obligingly led them through the thickets of courtiers to the famous writer's side. He was in full court dress: a rich blue jacket with two smart rows of silver buttons on the front.

"Ah, my English friends!" Goethe said in German upon seeing them, switching to French after this for their benefit. "Allow me to present you to His Grace Karl August, Grand Duke of Saxe-Weimar-Eisenach."

Goethe turned to the man standing next to him and the young tourists realized it was none other than the Duke himself. A little stunned to be thrown together with the prince so quickly, George did his best to master himself and make a dignified bow, mumbling incoherent phrases of reverence. Tobias followed suit, resisting the urge to sink to one knee as they had with previous monarchs.

"A pleasure, sirs," said the Duke, also in French. "We're always honored to have visitors from your illustrious island."

Karl August was an older man, appearing to be about Goethe's years. One thing he retained from his youth was a full head of hair, which in its reddish hue lent him a more vigorous aspect than his famous courtier. His jacket was dark green, with fine gold-thread epaulets and a crimson sash. A gold-embroidered military collar and two wartime medals completed the upper ensemble. George found it the most understated yet dignified dress he'd yet seen on a ruling Prince.

They exchanged the usual pleasantries, and before long Karl August was regaling them with tales from the Sixth Coalition against Bonaparte.

"You English were his staunchest opponents, though," he observed. "Stood firm while the other Great Powers wavered and fell for his wiles. Never England! Do you know, I've made a study of your English system of government?"

For a moment George didn't realize this was a genuine question.

"Have you, sir?" he blurted out. "Then I hope you've found it, er... satisfactory."

"That is precisely the word I would use," he said, "'satisfactory.' I found it so satisfactory in its provision of certain rights for the people that only this May I granted my own subjects a constitution of their own."