1816: the Grandest Tour

Hugh de Mowbray to Lady Selina de Mobray-Rockhamptonham

Hugh de Mowbray to Lady Selina de Mowbray-Rockhamptonham

Dear Auntie S,

I write you from as wretched a hovel of an inn as I have ever been forced to visit. We stay only one night, needless to say, but I expect sleep will keep a good distance from my chamber. It is really more a coachman's establishment, so Robin should feel quite at home. This Tobias fellow George brings along is too dumbstruck by his good fortune travelling with us to have any care of his surroundings. And George himself is besotted with dreams of love and adventure and Plutarch, so seems little affected himself.

I should leave moping, you will say. And you will be quite correct, of course. It is beyond a doubt that we will face accommodations many times more severe than this before our journey is through – but it pains me to think of this. Instead I will tell you of our tour, which, I am compelled to admit, does present some interest. Tomorrow we depart for Calais from this Cinque Port sty of a town, Dover. Generally I believe Calais would present little worthy of attention, apart from a stirring remembrance of Edward Plantagenet's victory over those fat-headed Burghers and some such riffraff. But a singularly intriguing circumstance has transpired to render this town altogether greater by virtue of a distinguished visitor. I speak, dear aunt, of George Brummell, the famous "Beau" of society who just weeks ago decamped to the continent rather than dignify some utterly calumnious slanders on his credit.

I know you have seen the Beau at Almack's and other assemblies in London, but I myself have never had the good fortune to witness either his legendary Taste in habiliments or Wit in conversation. So as we are to stay some days in Calais to arrange our transport to Paris and acclimate ourselves to France, I feel myself germinating a modest project. I will seek Mr. Brummell out, if possible, to offer whatever fellow-feeling an Englishman can offer another in exile. I know he may not be in the mood for visitors, but I am determined. As a gentleman inclined toward dignified elegance, his opinions on the Continental fashion will be invaluable to me. It is well-known that gentlemen venturing on the Grand Tour must inevitably adopt some of the local modes of dress as they travel, but I hope to choose only the best. One fortunate consequence of England's standing in the world, after the usurper Bonaparte's defeat, is the apparent favor for the style of the English country gentleman in every corner of Europe. I am not sure whether my companions will take any part in this business, but even if not, they are certain to benefit from my sartorial insights.

The night draws on, and I suppose I must close this letter. I doubt I'll have any more fortune with sleep on the passage over the rough and tumbling Channel. But the glittering Royal Courts of Europe await! I expect among all that dross there will be one or two people of real quality. Custom demands I give you my love to Father and Mother, though the former has done nothing to deserve it. Suffice it perhaps that my absence will show him what an exemplary son and heir he has, and teach him greater respect for the younger generation. My love to you of course, and uncle John and all the children.

Your affectionate and peregrinatory nephew,

Hugh