Chapter Twenty-five

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The port town of Rafina, on the eastern side of Attica, was an hour's drive out of Athens. It was bustling and alive that morning with both tourists and what seemed to be the local people cueing up in cars and trucks for a commute out to the CycladicIslands. From this ferry service the seagoing traveler would be able to connect with Andros, Tinos and Mykonos, within two, three and four hours, respectfully. It was just exactly eight o' clock AM when Theofilos with his two guests, Daniela and Nicasio in tow, managed to arrive barely in time to the asphalt and cement dock of Rafina. He skillfully maneuvered his small car-one of the last up the ramp and inside the enormous ship Penelope's stowing area for vehicles. Getting out of his rather beat-up Suzuki SUV and navigating precariously between the sandwiched cars, the three made it to the upper decks as the ship could be felt smoothly leaving the quay.

Theo, as tour guide of this impromptu, Saturday excursion, led his American guests up the stairs to a windy outside passenger area of the ship. It soon became obvious to the foreigners who had selected this venue that it was so that everyone, mostly Greek locals, could smoke incessantly. The practice was not allowed inside the more comfortable areas of the ferry, which sported dining areas and upholstered seating sections like a seasoned airliner. Reclining on one of the white plastic deck chairs with Nicasio and Daniela, Theo entertained them with stories of how, as a boy, he had traveled back in forth to Andros from Rafina over the many summers. It was the season, he told them, when the furious easterly winds, called meltemia made the journey rough, sometimes dangerous and barely tolerable outside on the windy deck.

"That was also when the ships were much smaller and slower," Theo added. "But can you imagine the ancient Greeks? Traveling across the entire Mediterranean in vessels only forty to fifty feet long? Sometimes in gale winds with waves like mountains. They were weeks in passage. Unable to navigate safely into bays or coves because of these damn winds."

Daniela looked out at the white port of Rafina receding into the distance. She looked further ahead at the Mediterranean before them. The sea was calm, cobalt blue, and the water rushed by the sturdy ship, kicking up brightly with sheets of spray. Theo explained they were approaching the largest of the Greek islands, Evia, directly across the strait. It looked to be as huge as the mainland. The two novice tourists remarked at how barren the mountains on this island looked, as they neared it from the west.

"Yes, but there are forests there as well, on the north side," Theo added. "Some believe . . . who like to marry history to mythology . . . that this island is where Odysseus of the Odyssey met up with the Cyclops in his famous cave. Just one of his classic adventures while sailing back to Ithaca."

Nicasio smiled and winked at Daniela.

"Beyond Evia, to the southeast," Theo went on, "the Cycladic islands are just like little mountains of desert dropped into the sea. With the exception of my green Andros, where we're going next." He was beaming a now, mentioning his own ancestral island.

Nicasio and Daniela continued to glance at each other and smile subtly at his boyish pride.

"So how far is it?" Nicasio inquired.

Andros is close," he said. "The very next one we come to." He was reaching down into a backpack he had carried with him since leaving the car. "You'll see the difference when we get closer. It's greener . . . from the many huge trees. Not easily seen from down here on the sea."

"I can't wait to see it, Theo," Daniela said.

"It's also got some very nice sandy beaches along the shoreline . . . and some pretty romantic villages on the sides of the mountains."

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