The time was 5:30am and man was I tired. But anyways I got up and out of bed and threw on a Nike shirt that was hanging over my chair from the day before and put on some boardies (board shorts if you're american haha). With this all done I snuck out my room and outside to the pathway out the back of the house where the beach was. The air was so fresh and salty. It was really refreshing and quite relaxing being up so early, it was almost as if the world was sleeping and you were the only one alive with total peace and freedom. As I stepped out onto the sand I saw Tayla standing there and almost didn't notice her for a second because of her beach blonde hair.
"Hey Will, you ready to go?" she said in a softish tone
"Go where? Didn't you have some surprise for me? ..... Please tell me I didn't wake up this early for some kind of practical joke or something" I said still half asleep
"Oh come on wake up and stop being such a girl, grab your skateboard, the surprise is something really awesome!" She said in a soft voice but you could hear the excitement hidden as if she was trying to contain her excitement because everyone was still sleeping.
I dashed back to my yard and grabbed my board and met taylor out front on the pathway. My board was an oldish kind of board, retro longboard wheels with a small deck and some retro graphics. Tayla's board was more of a stylish candy pink board with a big barrel graphic and a mermaid painted on a rock alongside it.
"woa woa nice board dude, loving the retro" Tayla admired
"haha thanks yours is pretty mad too, sweet barrel" I replied
"thanks buddy! haha c'mon let's go, follow me!" she said
So off we went, skating down the front pathway adjacent to the beach at 5:30am. The sun was only just coming over the horizon and reflecting on the houses behind us. We skated along the beachfront for what seemed like forever because of the tranquility at this time of day passing some locals fisherman at the pier who looked like they had caught massive fish all night and had just camped out. Finally we arrived at a little dirt pathway behind some rocks sealed from society and Tayla kicked up her skateboard into her hand and kept walking along down the dirt pathway. After a few metres the dirt turned to grassy bushland and there was tall grass everywhere except for a pathway directly in front of us which had been flattened by some big object. We continued walking down the pathway with our boards until the pathway came to a fork. Tayla went to the right up a small hill following the pathway to a set of boulders and we sat down.
The view was amazing! The boulders we sat on looked out towards the ocean and was just breathtaking. Looking out towards the sea were some palm trees and dense bushland in front of us but on a level below where the other pathway passed through. Luckily our seats were above the plants and we had a clear view over the bushland and could see the crystal blue ocean water just a small walk away. Perfection was the only words to describe the conditions, endless barrels, barely any surfers out and just the forceful sound of waves crashing on the shoreline.
"it's amazing hey?" Tayla said softly breaking the silence we had been in just taking it all in
"Yes! how did you find such a place! It's.....It's...... Amazing" I replied back
"My cousin and I always used to come here when we were little kids, we would sit here for hours just imagining all our sponsors and thinking of cool tricks"
"I could just sit here forever hey! The view is magical and the surfers are literally pro's!"
We sat there on the rocks staring out into the ocean looking at the small crowd of 5-10 surfers. Most of them were semi-pro and could easily have qualified for the world tour. The tricks these guys and girls were pulling were nothing short of fancy. Backside alley-oops. Rodeo flips. Carving 360's to Air Reverses. You name it and these surfers were throwing them up. It didn't make sense how they could pull off the tricks so effortlessly but somehow weren't on the world tour. Maybe they didn't want to leave the life the have? Maybe they were too shy to perform in front of the world? Maybe they were just happy with their everyday life and their normal friends away from fame? Only they knew the real reasons why they never followed that path.
My thoughts were suddenly broken by an abrupt sound coming from the pathway leading to the rocks we were on. It sounded like a stampede of elephants charging towards us until I saw three ripped guys come running round the corner with surfboards under their arms and un-happy looks on their faces.
The first guy had shoulder length blonde hair with a shark tooth necklace and perfectly defined abs. He seemed as though he was the pack leader and the other two guys followed his lead. At this point Tayla and I were just staring at them while they stared directly back at us with an even more ferocious stare.
"WHAT YOU DOIN' HERE! LOCALS ONLY!" the guy with long hair shouted
"Oh....uhhhhhh we were just checking out the view" Tayla quickly said back
"Yea well yo can check out the view somewhere else cause this is for locals only!"
"Ok yep we were just about to leave.... Cmon let's go then"
"Woa Woa Woa not so fast! You two can't just sneak around here and not pay for it"
"Well what do we have to do? Didn't you want us to go?"
"You have to.....ummmm.....kiss! haha yes! You have to kiss before you go!"
"Noooooooo, why would we do that for you?"
They took a step closer, tensing their muscles even further so they were literally popping.
"You will do it if you want to get out of here safely! Now what's it gonna be, kiss or not!"
"Fine fine we will!"
Tayla and I both looked at eachother then started leaning towards each other smiling but also frowning with confusion when suddenly we heard a deep voice shout out
"Don't listen to him! .... Blake I thought I told you that anyone can use the beach! Stop acting like you own the turf, there's plenty of waves for everyone!"
"Sorry dad! Gah cmon boys lets get back out there and get some barrels, sorry to bother you two...."
"Hey sorry about Blake, he's abit of a know it all and thinks he owns the place. That kid never learns haha, what you two doing down here anyways?"
"Thanks so much for saving us Sir! We were just looking at the waves Sir, I am really interested in surfing and wanted to find some new local spots Sir." I replied back
"Please.... call me Ricky. Oh so you like surfing hey? You should enter the local comp coming up"
"Yea we were planning on that. You going to enter too?" Tayla snapped back enthusiastically
"Nah I'm too old for that stuff, all you youngsters just do crazy moves these days and airs. I used to back in my day but now I just find joy in surfing casually. You should definitely enter though" he replied
On that note, Tayla and Will made their way back to their houses to prepare for the upcoming surf comp and get a big nights sleep.
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Hope everyone is liking the story. Sorry for the slow writing
Been busy with work and surfing.
Leave a comment or fave :)
Next part coming soon
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The Sandy Surfer
Ficção AdolescenteWill is a highschool student who has just been told he has to move to Australia with his family. What will his new school be like? How will he fit in? Is this a new way of life? Is there a girl who has a crush on him? Read and find out! Will be upda...
