Cory - At Peace

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Seagulls fly low, just above the water, as warm air blows over me. I feel the wave building beneath my surfboard. I'm racing to catch it at the perfect spot. I make it and stand up, feeling confident about my surfing skills after a year of training. I ride the wave as far as it will take me. The sun reflects off my wet, tanned skin and a slim gold necklace with a half-heart that dangles from around my neck. I touch the gold chain as I glide across the water. My body feels strong and my mind is at peace looking out at the clear Hawaiian water and pale sandy beach.

This past year, I've been riding many waves. The tidal waves of life that come crashing down on top of you, over and over. For months, I couldn't catch my breath. There were many times I felt like I was drowning. I've managed to keep my head above the real waves. The mental waves have been another story. It gets easier as each day goes by only I don't know if I want it to get easier.

Eventually the ocean wave ends and I jump off the board near the water's edge. I notice as the sun rises higher on the horizon that the air is getting hotter. It's going to be a scorcher today in Oahu, making the water that much more inviting.

"Hey!"

I look up. It's Martin. I wave him over. "I couldn't wait. I got here early. The waves have been great."

"I wish I could have gotten up early. Saying good-bye to everyone last night tired me out. I crashed hard and slept through my alarm."

"I couldn't sleep at all so I came out here instead."

"Lucky you."

"You going in?"

"Of course – I wouldn't miss one last time to surf before we board our flight."

"Soak it up while you can."

"Oh, and check it out." Martin reaches into his bag of gear and pulls out a new prosthetic leg. "I get to try a new prosthetic today."

"It finally came in?"

"Yeah, on the last day we're here. Figures right? But it's here so I'm going to try it. I need to put it on. See you out there?"

"Yeah, see you." I grab my board and head back out into the water. As soon as my feet touch the warm waves, it hits me hard that I will soon be leaving Hawaii and these therapeutic waters. I will miss the calm, slow-moving atmosphere of the island as it's been exactly what I've needed to look ahead to the future – whatever it might be. 

I lie down on my board and paddle out to the surf. The beach is getting crowded with other surfers and tourists. I navigate my way to a less crowded area and sit up on my board to rest before tackling a new wave.

Martin sees me and sets out on his board. He catches up and we both sit and look out at the beautiful Hawaiian beach in front of us.

"I'm going to miss this," Martin points out.

"Pretty amazing isn't it? How's the leg?"

"So far so good. I'll see how it goes once I catch a wave. How's your knee today? Did you do your stretches this morning?"

"Yes, boss."

"Good. How's it feeling?"

"Getting stronger every day. A wave's coming, why don't you take it?"

"Cool." I watch as Martin paddles into the wave. I look down at my knee and the long scar from the ACL surgery. I run my finger along it and realize that my knee may be healing faster than my heart.

Another wave comes and I paddle into it. I catch it perfectly. Everything melts away and my body becomes one with the water.

I ride my board up to Martin, who stands waiting for me.

"So how's the leg?" I ask.

"Like it's never been chopped off."

I laugh out loud. "You're a sick man but you know how to make me laugh."

"You looked good out there. I think you're ready for the mountain."

I pick up my board and take a deep breath, "I think you're right."

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