Hey guys!! New book!! I really hope you like it. I promise it will be a great book. It would really mean a lot to me if you: read the whole book, vote, and add it to your library. Thx so much ✌️✌️
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Surfing is a surface water sport in which the wave rider, referred to as a surfer, rides on the forward or deep face of a moving wave, which is usually carrying the surfer towards the shore. Waves suitable for surfing are primarily found in the ocean, but can also be found in lakes or in rivers in the form of a standing wave or tidal bore.
This is how some people may define surfing.
But to me, it's not just a sport.
It's a way of life.
People may say, "Surfing is just like skateboarding on the ocean" or, "All you need to know to surf, is how to keep your balance"
But surfing is more than that.
It's the way you live your life.
To stay on top, you need to balance your lifestyle.
To not wipeout, you need to watch where your going.
And most importantly, you need to make sure that your getting on the right wave.
The sand stuck on your wrist and ankles.
Your ankle bracelet dripping when the rest of your body is dry.
The salty water on your skin.
The sea breeze in your hair.
When you feel the sun tanning your skin while your walking on sand.
Seeing the turquoise water and being able to run your fingers through it when you make a strong bottom turn.
As you make lines across the ocean as you go up and down the wave.
Just think about all of the different types of waves in the universe - light waves, mechanical waves, longitude waves - but ocean waves are the only kind humans can ride.
They happen to move at the right speed, with the right amount of force and height, so that surfers have no problem catching and riding them.
Surfing gives you a rush of adrenaline and exhilaration like no other sport.
Surfing is my life, my passion, my everything.
So if you ask me to define surfing in one word... I just can't.
Let's just way that:
I can't get enough of it.
YOU ARE READING
The Waves of Life
AdventureMaddie Braxton, a 17 year old homeschooled surfer from Southern California, finds that surfing is her true passion and life. On the other hand, Elijah Coleman, a 17 year old lifeguard and surfer, finds this tomboy girl very appealing to hang out wit...
