Chapter 12 - Ao'nung

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I was standing there looking at the waves. The competition hadn't started yet. My family probably weren't even here yet. So I had time to prepare. I was definitely nervous. What if I fucked this up somehow. What if I made a fool of myself in front of everyone coming. Fuck fuck fuck. It will be fine.. right?

After a while I looked back up to the spit where my family always were. I saw them setting up. Now I was starting to shake and my legs felt weak. But I knew that I had to do this. There was no way I could back out now.

Terry came over the loud speaker. Terry was the guy who was doing the commentary today. He was a good guy so I wasn't worried about him. I wasn't really listening either. I couldn't..

Eventually I noticed the crowd get quiet and actually started listening in. They put the competitors in alphabetical order. But it was last names. Like school. So I was around the end.

The other guys and girls were pretty good and I was starting to feel better. I could tell that they had only been doing this for only a couple years while surfing had been my whole life. I felt like I had this in the bag. That was until someone was called up. Tessa.

Tessa was good. Like really good. She put up a quite the show and the crowd loved her. But they always did. She was the big shot. Mainly in guys actually. I think it's because she wears a bikini. I mean seriously who wears a bikini in a surf competition. Obviously someone who wants those extra points.

Finally. It was my turn. I grabbed my board. I had had this board for around 2 years now and it was doing really well. It cost me like 800 bucks so it was definitely worth it.

I swam out into the water. This was always the worst part for me. Finding the perfect wave. It had to be perfect. Not to big that I will fall off almost straight away but also not to small that I will go no where. But eventually it came. The perfect wave. It was like Tangaroa had made it just for me.

I got ready. I started to kick. I couldn't miss this wave. I just couldn't. So I caught it. There I was. Standing om this wave. I was far enough out. I couldn't fall. Not now. Not ever. I have to make this. I just have too. I could hear the cheers of the crowd. They were all for me. I was the reason they were cheering.

I started off with some pretty simple maneuvers like the bottom turn and carve. I then went into some more difficult ones. There was nose riding and kick flipping. But then I went for the big one. The final one. The one that I hope is going to get the judges attention.

The closeout re entry. That is what I was going for. But I had to find the perfect place to do it.

Found it. I found it I found it. I smiled so big. And I went for it. I was praying. I didn't care who got it. As long as they helped me with this I'm sure it will be fine.

The crowd cheered and I open my eyes. I HAD DONE IT!!!! I DID IT!!! I lifted my arms up in the air celebrating and took course back to the shore. I heard whooping from my family and I looked over to see them all cheering. Every single one of them. Even the Sullys.

I stood there. Waiting for Terry. Waiting for the judges. They were making their final decisions. Everyone was silent. Not a single word was spoken. Not even out of that Lo'ak boy. 

Eventually Terry walked up in front of everyone. 
"Hello you all! I know what your thinking, 'this is taking forever' 'hurry up' but the judges have come t their decisions. In 3rd place we have.. James Cameron!! Congratulations!" James walked up to the judges shaking each of their hands before going over to Terry and shaking his hand receiving his trophy and then standing to the side. 
"And in 2nd place we have.." Everyone stopped breathing. This was it. Who would be second. I was praying to Eywa. 
"Tessa!" I let out my breath. Tessa was second?? Second? I saw Tessa look over to me with a smile on her face as she walked up to the judges doing the same as James.

Terry looked back down at his card. First place. I felt my hands begin to shake again and I looked back at my family who all had their eyes glued to Terry.
"And finally... this year's champion... AO'NUNG METKYINA!!!" I looked up from the sand. I had done it. I had won the surfing champs. I smiled widely and walked over to the judges. All of whom congratulated me when I shook their hand. I looked over to Terry who had a wide smile on his face as well. The crowd was cheering. Although I did hear some boos in the mix, but I ignored them. 

"Congratulations Ao'nung who have won this year's surf championship." Terry handed me my trophy and I took it gratefully. 
"Thank you, Terry." I went over to the stand. Standing on the tallest podium I felt filled with pride. 
"You were great Ao, you deserve it." I looked to see Tessa looking up at me smiling softly. 
"Thank you, Tessa. You also did amazing, and I personally think you could have beat me. But no one is as good as me so then again you could have never."

She laughed and we got off the podium. People were starting to leave but the top 3 had to get photos. I unzipped my wetsuit and pulled off the top half leaving it hanging around my waist. Had to look good for the picture. The photographer was a nice old lady called Sarah and she got us to huddle together in front of the water. We were there for a while before she took the photo. Suddenly water came crashing down on us and I heard Sarah laugh. When we went to look at the photo, we saw a rather big wave behind us. She had waited for that. 

I went over to my family holding my board and having my towel around my neck. 

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Chapter done!! Sorry it takes me so long I just got a job and there is also school so I am busy most of the time but I do try!

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