Chapter three: The Wave

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Riley stood on her bored feeling like a bird souring through the sky. She never wanted to come down. she was definitely going to win this! The sandy blonde hair sticking to her face blew off so she could see, suddenly all the blood drained from her body.

A wave was coming, not just any wave, a fucking mama wave, the biggest wave she's ever seen in her life. As the heavy rain started to pour down on her clod body, she knew this wouldn't end well.

"Girls!" the announcer shouted through his microphone "Get out of the water now! I repeat now!"

Distracted by the yells from the crowd, Riley didn't look where she was going. Just like that she crashed straight into Tess which then both the girls plummeted straight into the water. Riley was lost in the waves.

"HELP!" she screamed as she swallowed a gulp of salty sea water. "HELP!"

She couldn't breath. what if she drowned? right here, right now. She thought about never being able to see her family again, she thought about her childhood, it's like her life is flashing before her.

When Riley was four her dad plopped her little body on a bright yellow board. The waves were calm and steady.

Her dad said "Well it's about time we taught you how to ride the waves, eh?"

She nodded and tried to cover up the fear in her eyes. Even when she was this young, she was determined. She always wanted to show people that shes 'just one of the boys' and she's ready for everything that comes in her path.

Her dad chuckled, "Ri, it's okay to be a little scared, but surfing's in your blood. You'll be fine, I promise."

And  he was right, surfing is in her blood, by the third try, she was on that bored like she already knew how. And by age twelve she was the best surfer in her subdivision.

Surfing isn't her WHOLE life though, she's also very popular in school, but that didn't matter when she had Eleanor by her side. Ellie was her best friend 'partner in crime' as their moms would say. Ellie lives in a beautiful big grey house close to Riley's, she has a mom Marie and her younger brother Alex. Her dad died when she was two from cancer, his name was Brian.

Ellie and Riley have been best friends since sixth grade and that will never change, well it will never change if Riley doesn't die tonight.

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