Reasons To Love

Chapter 22.

Spending the day at the beach today was awesome. Until I almost died from surfing.....

When we got to the beach and it seemed like no one was there. Just a few people then us. Maybe they were on some other side of the beach, but it was literally empty where we were. It was probably due to the fact that it was really cloudy, but we still came out anyway.

After playing volleyball with the only people there, Rachel and I laid out to relax. But that lasted only a few minutes when a few surfer guys came up to us.

“Can I help you?” Rachel asked.

“Uh, yeah. We teach people to surf and well our clients canceled. And we came all this way, we were just wondering- How would you and your friend...” He gestured to me. “...Like a free surf lesson?”

“Uh-ha, your kidding right?” Rachel laughed excitedly.

“No, no, kidding here. It’s on the house. So are you guys up for it?”

Rachel looked at me with such excitement in her eyes. I knew if I said no, that she would be mad at me for, forever, so I agreed with it.

“Sure.”

“Ahhh. Yes!” She screamed, “Okay, so what do we do?”

“Here put these on.”

The guys introduced themselves as, Kai (KAEYE), Riley, and Skipp, with two ‘P’s’ as he said and handed us wet suits.

Kai, is really tan, looks to be Hawaiian, dark brown hair, with matching dark brown eyes. Riley has that fresh beach suntan look, with medium long shaggy dirty blonde hair, and sky blue eyes. Completely opposite from Jason’s. And lastly, Skipp, is a little more darker then pale, but he’s not so much tan, but still considered really light skinned, with white blonde hair and a pair of hazel eyes.

They are all very muscular and fairly attractive, which made us a little bashful around them.

They showed us how to swim out and how to get on the boards. It was all a little too much exercise for me since I was already tired from the volleyball game, but once we were out in the water it was worth it.

Derek, Jason, and Zach were yelling at Rachel and I to come back to shore because we were going to ‘hurt ourselves’. But that only made Rach and I more determined to go forth with it.

“All right, here comes a wave, Rach, you ready?” Kai asked.

Rachel was first to go, with Skipp not far behind her, just in case she fell off. Which after getting up, she did.

“Oh my God, that was awesome!” She screamed after coming to the surface.

“All right Alba, your up.” Kai said.

“Okay.”

I took a deep breath in, then let it out. I was nervous and scared and my heart was quivering with fear and excitement,. I started paddling out and I turned around when I heard Riley scream at me. “Alba, you went out to far! Come back in and ride the next wave.”

No way, if I went back in, I wouldn’t do it. I needed to do it now.

I shook my head and waited. And at the right moment, I stood up and tried to keep my balance. I heard everyone scream with delight when I was riding the wave and then.......... it all went silent.

I crashed down into the water, hard. I tumbled and rustled around and tried to come back up for air. But my board was stuck on something and I couldn’t get the leash that was around my ankle to unclasp. My lungs ached and burned, literally dying for air, but there wasn’t anything I could do. I was stuck under the water, being ripped by the waves in every direction. I was going into the darkest part of the sea, and all I could think was, I’m going to die, I’m going to freakin’ die.