George and I were still jetlagged and exhausted. For us it was about midnight, but we were running on strong coffee and the excitement of being in such a foreign, utterly mystifying place. We had spent the day driving around the countryside, looking at Eddie's properties, four or five farmhouses he'd bought dirt cheap that he intended to renovate and use as rentals. As you can see from the photos below, the houses were so dilapidated it was hard to imagine anyone wanting to live in them.
Eddie's basement
But the countryside was beautiful, green rolling hills and meadows dotted with old, mostly abandoned Saxon villages. Eddie told us that when Ceausescu's rule ended in 1989, the Saxons were allowed to return to Germany (leaving all their belongings behind), and the Gypsies descended on the deserted villages, bringing with them a looser and vastly different culture.*
Saxon Village
Gypsy girl
At the end of the day we took a walk through the citadel at Sighisoara, stopping to look over one of the ancient walls at the city below.
George in a Sighisoara Street
Coincidentally a photo shoot was going on, a beautiful dark-haired girl being photographed in a chic winter suit and outrageously stylish high heels, just a few feet from where we were standing at the rampart. Of course I couldn't stop staring. The model shifted from position to position as the camera followed her and the stylist darted in every few seconds to fuss over hair and makeup.
fashion illustration – In Italy -, Kazue Shima, https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
The model
She was drop dead gorgeous. High cheekbones. Rail thin body. Long black hair. I was so busy watching her that I didn't quite separate out the moment her eyes fell on me and her face changed from a model's placidly agreeable expression to one of horrified concern. "Mama!" she yelled, pushing aside the stylist and tripping toward me in her crazy heels.
*The forgotten Saxon world that is part of Europe's modern heritage, Simon Jenkins, theguardian, October 1, 2009
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