A/N the photo above ^ is of Stephanie Gilmore, for those who don't know her she's an Aussie surfer who's won the ASP World Champion 6 times! Anyway enjoy this chapter! :)
Matilda's POV
Will ended up staying the night after our High School Musical marathon, but on the couch of course.
I wake early in the morning to the sound of crashing waves, my body craving the ocean. I quietly hop out of bed and look out the widow finding that it looks to be perfect weather. I pull on a bikini and my springsuit (A/N a springsuit is half a wetsuit, only has the upper half), then walk outside grabbing my board and I leave for the beach.
I'm excited, really excited. I could hear the waves clearly from my house this morning, which doesn't happen often. I live a couple streets back from the beach. Hearing the waves means they must be bigger than usual so I'm excited.
When the entrance to the beach opens up I slide off my thongs and step down into the soft sand. The waves are average, but once I get around to third ramp they should be amazing.
*****
As I suspected the waves at third ramp are like nothing I've ever seen in Hartton bay. They were firing and I couldn't wait to get out there. I instantly drop all my belonging and sprint down into the water.
My arms slice through the crystal blue water making me feel alive, which is strange since my body is running on very little sleep and numerous loads of coffee.
There's only a couple of other surfers out, maybe only ten anyway it's less than I thought there would be. Less is better, more waves for me.
I grab the sides of my board pushing the nose down and I smile to myself as I resurface after diving under a wave.
I finally get out to the line up and sit on my board waiting for a wave. I don't have to wait long. Soon enough I spot a set of waves forming off the horizon.
My eyes don't leave the approaching waves as i lay on my board and begin to paddle back towards shore.
I feel my board lift higher as the wave hits me. I quickly pop to my feet letting my weight be on my front foot. I speed down the slope of the wave ready for some action.
I begin to cut up and down the wave, flicking my hips to carve the water. I throw I a 360 before the waves crashes, engulfing me in a nice barrel.
Barrels only occur occasionally at this time of the year, but when they do it's the best part about the surf.
Once the wave turns useless I jump off onto my board and paddle back out to the line up.
I sit watching the horizon once again. Patience is the key to surfing, if you have no patience with the waves you'll never be able to surf anything decent.
"Hey! Sick ride!" I hear Someone call off to my side. I turn around trying to look for whoever they were talking to.
"I was talking to you silly" the girls voice says as she paddles over to me.
When I get a glimpse of her face I almost fall off my board, it's Stephanie Gilmore.
"T-thanks" I stutter
"Bet you never thought you'd hear that from me" she laughs
"N-n, no" I reply nervously
"Relax Matilda it's only me"
"How do you know my name?" I ask shocked
"I've seen you around, you know surf life, RipCurl and stuff" she shrugs as if it's no big deal, well it's a big deal for me.
