One Stupid Thing

1:9:34

Kiara dropped us off at JJ's house. This is the first time I've been here, yet I don't feel excited. JJ assured me that his dad isn't home, but knowing what has happened here makes me physically sick. Honestly, the Chateau feels more like his home than this place does. We quickly grab our surfboards from a shed out back and walk down the road to a nearby beach.

"Did you hear about the storm coming tomorrow night?" I ask JJ.

"Nope, but that means the waves will be pretty good," he replies.

I drop my board onto the sand and start to undress. We're lucky that we live in the Outer Banks and that it is normal to always have a swimsuit on you because otherwise I don't know what I would've done. As, I pull my shirt over my head, I can feel JJ's eyes on me and my face reddens. I ignore the feeling and take off my shorts. JJ also takes off his shirt and I sneak a quick glance at his toned figure before he sees.

"Come on, those waves are practically calling my name. You know, they used to call me the 'king of the waves'?" He stands tall and poses.

"Oh, really?" I say, but I can't keep a straight face at the ridiculous nickname.

"Hey! Last one out there's a rotten fish!" He grabs his board and dashes for the sea.

"Gross!" I exclaim, but I pick up my board and run after him laughing. The waves hit me with a cold splash. I suppress a shiver and paddle out to meet JJ.

"Okay, surfing is pretty simple, but it's all about the technique. Once you have your eye on a wave, you're going to want to let it chase you before even standing up. Let me show you how it's done." JJ instructs me. I nod, but smile to myself. I was taught how to surf when I was a little girl, but I'll let him think that I'm a newbie. This will be fun.

He chooses a wave and soon enough he is up and shredding the water like an absolute pro. I'm impressed and not going to lie it's pretty hot watching him surf like that. He paddles back to me. "Got it?" he asks.

"Got it," I reply. I turn to the open sea and eye up the waves rolling in. One in particular seems big enough to surf, but not so big that it would grow out of control. I narrow my eyes in the squinting sun and accept the challenge. That is the wave I will ride. I begin to paddle away from the wave or "let it chase me" as JJ would say.

"Wait, wait, wait! Stella! Stella Cameron! No! Stop! Don't you dare paddle any further!" JJ protests. I ignore him and once I feel the water splashing at my heels I push myself up onto the board as quick and as balanced as possible. The wave continues on towards the shore, but I'm not satisfied with just riding it in, so I grab the edge of my board with one hand to steady myself and I cut up the wave. My board slices the water like a knife, but I eventually lose momentum and dip out before I can reach the sand. I hear JJ cheering from a distance. I paddle my board back out to him. "Holy shit! Where did you learn to shred like that?"

"Well, my dad didn't teach me how to scuba dive, but he did teach me how to surf," I tell him. "I guess he's good for something after all."

"I-I'm sorry. I didn't mean to—" JJ stutters.

"No! No, it's alright. You don't have to apologize for my father's actions," I reassure him. I paddle my board parallel to his and sit up, straddling it. "Where did you learn how to surf? I mean, you are way better than I ever will be."

"Oh, uh, my dad actually," he tells me.

"Another thing we have in common," I point out.

"Look, uh, I've been meaning to ask you," JJ starts. "How are you doing with everything? You know, with your dad, and I guess now your brother."