Malibu Rescuers Part 1

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The water was beautiful. The ocean was magnificent. Malibu is such a pretty beach and city. I was so excited about getting in the water and surfing, while Cassie, my prosaic friend, was more excited for tanning, not as fun, but that's okay, I'm too excited to get to finally surf in California.

I literally threw my towel and phone down when Cassie found a spot and ran towards the water.

There was quite a few surfers out in the water, but it seems that most people just wanted to tan because everybody is laying on the beach.

I took a step off the sand and into the cold water, but it might've been much colder if I didn't have my wetsuit on.

I paddled out about 50 meters from the shore and saw beautiful waves starting to form.

There was at least 5 other surfers in this same area all looking for a good wave, a few of them, seemed to wearing wetsuits, so they were obviously professionals. The waves weren't too crazy, there was definitely some good waves that I rode that I've never seen in Florida.

I easily lost track of time, some surfers came and went and the waves kept on rolling.

There was definitely some waves that would be very tall before they broke in the water. As I was watching the waves, I noticed a very large one forming on the back horizon. Some of the other pro surfers in the area noticed it too, and we all started towards it.

The closer we came up on it, the bigger it got, some surfers even turned back and headed towards the shore, I was not about to do that. I just kept on paddling with two other surfers towards the wave.

I could feel in the water, that the wave was going to be a good one. It would be a missed opportunity if I turned back now.

I got right in front of the wave, turned my board around, and started paddling so that I could catch the wave. I noticed the other surfers went under the wave and no one was trying to catch this particularly huge wave but me.

The wave caught me so I stopped paddling and steadied myself. I got ready and I jumped up and stood on the board, making sure to keep my balance. I started to carve through the wave and do some bottom turns until I was able to ride through the barrel of the wave, the inside was so pretty and mesmerizing.

I went to exit the barrel until the wave enclosed on me and I was sent underwater with my board flying up in the air. I didn't get a chance to hold my breath before going under, so I sucked in a whole bunch of water, which is causing me problems, because you're not supposed to breath water. When the wave sent me under, the water twisted me in ways that I could not imagine, and my back was starting to kill me from the rough waves and currents under the water constantly tearing up my body.

I went to resurface from the water and ended up getting hit in the head by my board, immediately causing me to start to see black spots and causing me to have a pounding headache.

Somehow I was able to resurface back on my board. I was still coughing up water but my body was so exhausted and out of it. I waved my arm around before I decided to lay down on my board, in the middle of the waves. I began to drift and in no matter of time, the black spots take over and I lose conscious.

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Part 2 is next!

You may have seen this story before. 🤔

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